July 29, 2010 - Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia

Thursday, July 29, 2010 - Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia

We made it! A major goal of the trip was to get to Peggy's Cove.


View Hilden to Peggy's Cove in a larger map

Set up at King Neptune Campground

We drove south from the Scotia Pine Campground to the King Neptune Campground at Indian Harbor, set up the Scamp and headed Peggy's Cove.

The landscapes in this area are a mixture of huge granite boulders scattered among marshy wetlands and potholes, pink granite outcrops capped with stunted evergreens, and long shoreline vistas uninterrupted by the low-growing rushes and sedges. As we drove though them, the views reminded us of similar scenes from the Lofoten Islands in the north of Norway, and some of the rugged areas in the Boundary Waters Wilderness Canoe Area, and, surprisingly, Weathertop from Lord of the Rings.

Peggy's Cove

It was a cloudy, foggy morning and it was perfect for our introduction to the cove. Of course, a bright and clear day would have been perfect as well.

Peggy's Cove is a jewel. A delight for an artist or a photographer or a casual tourist; actually, anyone lucky enough to have eyes that see. Pictures submitted as totally inadequate proof of that statement are presented here.

Working boats at docks nestled in a tiny harbor surrounded by weathered boat houses. Old dories and launches pulled up at the water's edge. Fishermen's houses scattered like toys across the granite shore. Peggy's Cove is one of those places that invite you to spend a day or a lifetime trying to capture its essence on canvas or film.

Docks at Peggy's Cove

Peggy's Cove is not far from the big city of Halifax, Nova Scotia. As you might guess, it is a very popular tourist destination. Dozens of large tour buses descend daily on Peggy's Cove, disgorging hundreds of camera-wielding tourists. (I should talk, right?) Peggy's Cove is best experienced, in my opinion, early in the day before the buses arrive, or late in the day nearing sunset after the buses depart, or in inclement weather such as fog and rain which imparts a more intimate feel to the place.

Needing to restock our food and cash supplies, we headed up the road to the shopping center at Tantallon. On the return, we stopped at the White Sails Bakery on the shore of St. Margarets Bay where we bought our first bag of oat cakes and we found them to be a very tasty treat. The Delish Deli and Cafe is on the second floor of the building that houses the bakery.

For lunch at the deli, Nancy sampled the "genuine Cornish" pasty which was very good but we like the smoked brisket pasties from Turtle River Pasties more, and a sausage roll. Fred bravely ordered the steak and kidney pie which he enjoyed - more than he thought he might.

Rain began to fall as we returned to our campsite. We spent the remainder of the day in the Scamp, resting and reading.